CONWY - ANGLESEY - CAERNAFON - LLANGOLLEN
Masonic Jewels Tour - UK Day 14 - NORTH WALES
Food For Thought
The sign on the station in Welsh with its translation underneath
An old print of Thomas Telford's Suspension Bridge over the Menai Straits
We entered Anglesey by the Menai Straits Bridge, deviating off the A55. The bridge was designed by Thomas Telford and completed in 1826 and is a Grade I listed building.
Construction of the bridge, to Telford's design, began in 1819 with the towers on either side of the strait. These were constructed from Penmon limestone and were hollow with internal cross-walls. Then came the sixteen huge chain cables, each made of 935 iron bars, that support the 176-metre span. The iron was soaked in linseed oil and later painted to avoid rusting. The chains were huge, each measuring 522.3 metres and weighing 121 tons (imperial). They were calculated to be able to suspend 2,016 tons. The question “How did they handled these chains” comes to mind. The bridge was opened to much fanfare on 30 January 1826.
The roadway was only 24 ft wide and, without stiffening trusses, and soon proved unstable in the wind. The deck of the Menai Bridge was strengthened in 1840 by W. A. Provis and, in 1893, the entire wooden surface was replaced with a steel deck designed by Sir Benjamin Baker. The bridge has since been strengthened with steel chains replacing the wrought iron ones in 1938.
Construction of the bridge, to Telford's design, began in 1819 with the towers on either side of the strait. These were constructed from Penmon limestone and were hollow with internal cross-walls. Then came the sixteen huge chain cables, each made of 935 iron bars, that support the 176-metre span. The iron was soaked in linseed oil and later painted to avoid rusting. The chains were huge, each measuring 522.3 metres and weighing 121 tons (imperial). They were calculated to be able to suspend 2,016 tons. The question “How did they handled these chains” comes to mind. The bridge was opened to much fanfare on 30 January 1826.
The roadway was only 24 ft wide and, without stiffening trusses, and soon proved unstable in the wind. The deck of the Menai Bridge was strengthened in 1840 by W. A. Provis and, in 1893, the entire wooden surface was replaced with a steel deck designed by Sir Benjamin Baker. The bridge has since been strengthened with steel chains replacing the wrought iron ones in 1938.
On 28 February 2005 the bridge was promoted to UNESCO as a candidate World Heritage Site.
The coach made its way to Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch. This is a railway station, with the longest place name in the British Isles.
The coach made its way to Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch. This is a railway station, with the longest place name in the British Isles.
Telford's Menai Straits bridge today and the railway station with the longest name in Britain
The name means in English - “St Mary's Church in the hollow of the white hazel near the rapid whirlpool and the church of St Tysilio by the red cave.”
This is a a living museum which once housed the industrial engineering workshops for the former Dinorwig slate quarry and catered for all repair and maintenance work demanded by the quarry. At its height there were over 3,000 men working in the Dinorwig slate quarry complex. The business closed in 1969, and the Museum opened in 1972. There were not only examples of the craftsmanship of those workers, but the machinery that was used at various times. All of this nestled under the mountainsides with their huge slate quarries carved into them.
On the bus again and a drive past Llyn Peris. The shoreline shows large range of water levels, and was evidence of this lake being something other than normal. The lake forms the lower reservoir of Dinorwig power station. Water is released from a reservoir, Marchlyn Mawr, some 500 metres above, to flow through turbines to produce electricity during periods of peak demand. This water is then pumped back up using off-peak power from Llyn Peris to the upper reservoir. The water level of the Llyn Peris therefore varies considerably, up to 14 metres, depending on UK electricity demand. The power that can be generated is 1728 Megawatts for up to 6 hours. The plant runs at 74-75% efficiency.
12,000,000 tonnes of rock had to be moved from inside the mountain, creating tunnels wide enough for two lorries to pass comfortably and an enormous cavern 51 metres tall, 180 metres long, and 23 metres wide This has given rise to the station's alternative name of Electric Mountain. Time once again precluded a visit.
The very essence of this Masonic Jewels Tour was to provide a framework on which one could go back individually and take more time exploring and learning more about places that had been visited. The statistics and uniqueness of Electric Mountain are such that it demands a future visit.
On the bus again and a drive past Llyn Peris. The shoreline shows large range of water levels, and was evidence of this lake being something other than normal. The lake forms the lower reservoir of Dinorwig power station. Water is released from a reservoir, Marchlyn Mawr, some 500 metres above, to flow through turbines to produce electricity during periods of peak demand. This water is then pumped back up using off-peak power from Llyn Peris to the upper reservoir. The water level of the Llyn Peris therefore varies considerably, up to 14 metres, depending on UK electricity demand. The power that can be generated is 1728 Megawatts for up to 6 hours. The plant runs at 74-75% efficiency.
12,000,000 tonnes of rock had to be moved from inside the mountain, creating tunnels wide enough for two lorries to pass comfortably and an enormous cavern 51 metres tall, 180 metres long, and 23 metres wide This has given rise to the station's alternative name of Electric Mountain. Time once again precluded a visit.
The very essence of this Masonic Jewels Tour was to provide a framework on which one could go back individually and take more time exploring and learning more about places that had been visited. The statistics and uniqueness of Electric Mountain are such that it demands a future visit.
Caernafon walled town in olden times, and an aerial view of the castle today
Although it was impressive militarily, some of the accommodation was built to be of the highest standards, and even the first son of King Edward the 1st was born there in 1284. He was the first to be called the Prince of Wales. Built as the seat of power, King Edward also built the walled town around the Castle.
The bus left Caernafon on the A4086 travelling inland toward the Snowdon National Park. Our first stop was the Welsh Slate Museum at Llanberis.
The bus left Caernafon on the A4086 travelling inland toward the Snowdon National Park. Our first stop was the Welsh Slate Museum at Llanberis.
The Welsh Slate Quarry museum, some examples of work, and the lake Llyn Peris
The tour through Wales started with a drive along the North West Coast to Conwy, right next to the shore of the Irish Sea which stretched out to the west.
This is the body of water that separates Ireland from the British mainland. It stretches from the North “an imaginary line joining the South extreme of the Mull of Galloway in Scotland and Ballyquintin Point in Northern Ireland", and in the South a line joining St. David's Head in Wales to Carnsore Point in Eire. The sea is about 210 kms long and 240 kms wide at the widest point. Its total area is approximately 100,000 square kms, and its greatest depth is around 175 m.
This is the body of water that separates Ireland from the British mainland. It stretches from the North “an imaginary line joining the South extreme of the Mull of Galloway in Scotland and Ballyquintin Point in Northern Ireland", and in the South a line joining St. David's Head in Wales to Carnsore Point in Eire. The sea is about 210 kms long and 240 kms wide at the widest point. Its total area is approximately 100,000 square kms, and its greatest depth is around 175 m.
The road close to Conwy, and some of the turbines of the Wind farm visible to the West
From the shoreline the 30 wind turbines of the North Hoyle Offshore Wind Farm were clearly visible. This wind farm covers an area of 10 square kilometres, and is about 7.5 kilometres off the coast. It was Wales' first offshore wind farm, and the UK's first major offshore renewable power project. It is situated in Liverpool Bay, and commenced operation in 2003 producing electricity for up to 50,000 homes. This was intended as a project to be a test bed for understanding offshore wind farms, and has been so successful that in 2014 the second largest wind farm in the world has been started at Gwynt y Môr (160 turbines for 400,000 homes).
The tour party drove through the centre of this walled town to the quayside, and visited what the Guinness Book of Records claims is “The Smallest House in Great Britain”. It is 3.05 metres x 1.8 metres. It was continuously occupied from the 16th century until 1900 when the owner, a 1.8 m tall fisherman, Robert Jones, was forced to move out on the grounds of hygiene. The rooms were too small for him to stand up in fully. The house is still owned by his descendants.
A quick walk on the estuary beach provided a great view up the River Conwy to the bridges and the Castle. Owing to the schedule the tour party did not get a chance to visit the castle or the ancient Abbey, as we had to make our way to the Isle of Anglesey.
A quick walk on the estuary beach provided a great view up the River Conwy to the bridges and the Castle. Owing to the schedule the tour party did not get a chance to visit the castle or the ancient Abbey, as we had to make our way to the Isle of Anglesey.
Then South on the A487 to Caernafon, and its famous Castle which proved difficult to photograph from the moving bus as we drove on the road which skirts around the bottom of its walls.
Caernarfon is arguably the most impressive of all of the castles in Wales. It's defensive capabilities may not be as overt as those of the other 3 castles in the “Iron ring”, but all 4 were the pinnacle of castle building in Britain. Caernarfon was intended to be a seat of power and a symbol of English dominance over the subdued Welsh, and therefore given additional features. Most castles have round towers but not Caernafon which has multi-sided towers. There are bands and patterns of colour coded stones throughout the structure. It is said to have been built in the fashion of the walls of Constantinople. The defensive walls were up to 6 metres thick. The Kings Gate had 5 doors through which an attacker would have had to break
Caernarfon is arguably the most impressive of all of the castles in Wales. It's defensive capabilities may not be as overt as those of the other 3 castles in the “Iron ring”, but all 4 were the pinnacle of castle building in Britain. Caernarfon was intended to be a seat of power and a symbol of English dominance over the subdued Welsh, and therefore given additional features. Most castles have round towers but not Caernafon which has multi-sided towers. There are bands and patterns of colour coded stones throughout the structure. It is said to have been built in the fashion of the walls of Constantinople. The defensive walls were up to 6 metres thick. The Kings Gate had 5 doors through which an attacker would have had to break
Telford's suspension Bridge alongside the modern road bridge with Conwy castle behind
The drive down the coast brought us to Conwy. This used to be spelt Conway in the rest of the U.K. It is situated at the mouth of the River Conwy, and is an old wall city of considerable historical significance. Today the road enters the town over a modern bridge running beside the original Conwy Suspension Bridge, designed by Famous Freemason Thomas Telford to replace the ferry. This was completed in 1826 and spans the River Conwy next to the castle. Telford designed the bridge's supporting towers to match the castle's turrets.
Conwy Castle, and the town walls, were built, on the instruction of Edward I of England, between 1283 and 1289, as part of his conquest of the principality of Wales. It is a magnificent castle as photographs show. It is the northernmost castle of the 4 that made up the “iron ring” constructed at King Edward's behest during his reign for the subduing the Welsh. Beaumaris on Anglesey and Caernafon at the North and South ends of the Menai Straits, and Harlech further South.
Conwy Castle, and the town walls, were built, on the instruction of Edward I of England, between 1283 and 1289, as part of his conquest of the principality of Wales. It is a magnificent castle as photographs show. It is the northernmost castle of the 4 that made up the “iron ring” constructed at King Edward's behest during his reign for the subduing the Welsh. Beaumaris on Anglesey and Caernafon at the North and South ends of the Menai Straits, and Harlech further South.
The writer beside the smallest house in Britain, and the view of the Castle and Bridges from the Estuary
Caernafon Castle
The coach returned to mainland Wales by the A55 crossing the Menai Straits on the Britannia bridge. On the approach to this bridge one has a full side on view of Thomas Telford's Menai Straits suspension bridge to the North.
The modern Britannia Bridge with Telford's bridge behind, Artist's impression of Telford's bridge in foreground and Robert Stephenson's Britannia Bridge in the background
Artist's impression of the original Robert Stephenson's Britannia Bridge, and of its construction with a main section being floated out prior to lifting into place
The Britannia Bridge was built by Famous Freemason Robert Stephenson, who together with his father George Stephenson designed and built the famous Rocket.
It was built using a completely new technique to carry the railway line. The railway lines were encased in massive box sections. The two main spans were 140 metres long, and the tubes, each weighing 1,500 tons, were floated out and jacked up into position
It was built using a completely new technique to carry the railway line. The railway lines were encased in massive box sections. The two main spans were 140 metres long, and the tubes, each weighing 1,500 tons, were floated out and jacked up into position
The box sections were manufactured on shore, and a photo of the bridge in the 1960s
These sections were constructed on shore the iron sheets were riveted together to form the tube. On being raised to the correct height they were fitted onto the masonry piers, the central one being built on Britannia Rock.
Unfortunately a fire in 1970 severely damaged the bridge, and it was rebuilt using the same piers, but expanded with a road deck above the railway line. To support the additional weight arch strengthening was added, as the requirement to allow sailing ships' masts to pass was no longer an issue.
Unfortunately a fire in 1970 severely damaged the bridge, and it was rebuilt using the same piers, but expanded with a road deck above the railway line. To support the additional weight arch strengthening was added, as the requirement to allow sailing ships' masts to pass was no longer an issue.
The spur of Mt Snowdon with train on ridge, the Llanberis pass and some intrepid hitch hikers
As the bus climbed steadily up the Pass of Llanberis one could just make out the special train, on its journey up to the summit, on the crest of the spur of Snowdon to the south. The mountainsides were rugged and strewn with boulders. The road was narrow and flanked by walls of local stone, but this did not stop the trampers from walking to the top of the Pass, but they always faced the oncoming traffic.
The open country after the Llanberis pass and the Ugly house
On the way down from the top of the pass the countryside opens up into more expansive nature, with rolling hills and valleys. The stone walls still line the roadsides, and down near Capel Curig we glimpse the “Ugly House”. This was built of boulders around 1475. Though the true origins of the “Ugly House” remain shrouded in mystery, legend tells us that it was a crude house built in the 15th century by two outlaw brothers. It was a ‘Ty Un Nos’ - or house built overnight. Under ancient Welsh law, he who built a house between sunset and sunrise, with walls, roof and smoking chimney, could claim the freehold.
Relatively fast and flowing roads on the uplands had us quickly into Denbyshire, and our canal trip near Llangollen. Llangollen is now famous for being where the TV programme Dr. Who is produced, but it has long been famous for its canal and the nearby Pontycysylte aqueduct.
Relatively fast and flowing roads on the uplands had us quickly into Denbyshire, and our canal trip near Llangollen. Llangollen is now famous for being where the TV programme Dr. Who is produced, but it has long been famous for its canal and the nearby Pontycysylte aqueduct.
The plaque giving the information on the aquaduct, the aquaduct from the valley floor and from the bridge over the River Dee
The coach made its way to the valley floor to look at the bottom of the support piers, and a view from the bridge over the river Dee, over which the aquaduct is built.
The aqueduct is built on one strata of rock, each pier being constructed of local stone. The support piers are tapered, measuring 27ft in width at the bottom and 17ft at the top. 19 cast iron arches, each with a 45ft span support the bridgework. Mortar used in the construction comprised of lime, water and oxen blood. The iron castings were produced at the local Plaskynaston Foundry and each casting dovetails into the next.
It passes 126 feet above the River Dee and was built by Famous Freemason Thomas Telford between 1795 and 1805. It is 1007 feet long, running through cast iron troughs 11 feet 10 inches wide and 5 feet 3 inches deep. These are sealed with a mix of boiling sugar and lead, it is watertight as the canal boats have used it for over 200 years.
It passes 126 feet above the River Dee and was built by Famous Freemason Thomas Telford between 1795 and 1805. It is 1007 feet long, running through cast iron troughs 11 feet 10 inches wide and 5 feet 3 inches deep. These are sealed with a mix of boiling sugar and lead, it is watertight as the canal boats have used it for over 200 years.
The aquaduct from the road, the embarkation point, and a long boat on the aquaduct
Parts of canals are made wider to allow the boats turn, or tie up and pick up passengers or cargo. The narrow boats are just that - narrow. They take 3 people across the beam nowadays, and the journey is very quiet and peaceful. There was an unfettered view out to the River Dee below and a photograph shows the thickness of the castings, and a sight of the bridge on which an earlier slide was taken. As one looks down it is almost as though one is suspended in the air.
Almost immediately after crossing the aqueduct there is a junction and the canal becomes wider and has stone sides. This is the meeting of two canals.
Almost immediately after crossing the aqueduct there is a junction and the canal becomes wider and has stone sides. This is the meeting of two canals.
Passengers in the longboat, the view of the River Dee below, the canal widens on the other side
The narrow boat turned northwards onto the Shropshire Union Canal Llangollen Branch, which took us quietly and restfully through the beautiful Vale of Llangollen to our bus. Travelling on the canal was a superb experience, and gave one a much greater connection with the countryside than most other forms of transport. This 2 hour trip took us along a length of the canal that is now a World Heritage Site.
On disembarking the coach then made its way to our hotel in Newcastle-under-Lyme, outside which was a statue of the Famous Freemason that the next leg of our tour features. At dinner we talked about the magnificent achievements of Thomas Telford that featured during the day.
On disembarking the coach then made its way to our hotel in Newcastle-under-Lyme, outside which was a statue of the Famous Freemason that the next leg of our tour features. At dinner we talked about the magnificent achievements of Thomas Telford that featured during the day.
The longboat in the countryside, Famous Freemason Thomas Telford, the statue of our next day's Famous Freemason
NEXT: Wedgwood, Shugborough and the Lodge at Bath