FORT WILLIAM TO GLASGOW
Masonic Jewels Tour - UK Day 10 - Fort William to Glasgow
Tour to be continued in next update - Lodge Kilwinning and Rabbie Burns
Food For Thought
A look back at Ben Nevis from the Road to the Isles, The Glennfinnan Monument at the head of Loch Shiel, The statue of Bonnie Prince Charlie tops the meonument
The next step of our journey along the far shores of Loch Eilt, well known for salmon fishing, the along the shores of the sea loc, Loch Ailort, and to Glenuig with the Islands of Eigg and Rum on the horizon
Loch Moidart, the Seven Men of Moidart, and a view to the West along Loch Moidart
Glencoe is impressive from the bottom steep slopes run down to the road, and rocky cuttings make the scenery worthy of the name Highlands
The day dawned dry and warm. The bus headed out to the North West leaving Thomas Telford's A82, and onto another road designed by this famous freemason, the A830, commonly known as the Road to the Isles. A short distance after turning on to this road there is a bridge across the Caledonian canal, close to the series of Locks called the Devil's staircase.
The next few miles are along the north shore of the sea loch, Loch Eil, and one can look back at Fort William with Ben Nevis as a backdrop. At the end of this arm of the sea loch there is a gentle climb and then descent into Glennfinnan at the east end of Loch Shiel, our first stop. This is where a monument stands to Bonnie Prince Charlie, and is near the spot where he assembled the Clans in 1745. This is where the rebellion started, and is just a short 81 miles from our first stop the previous day, Culloden, where the rebellion ended. There is a car park for the monument and a museum to Jacobite rebellion on the other side of the road from the monument.
Coming out of the Glen Moidart one descends the gentle slopes on a narrow (single track in parts) down towards the west end of Loch Shiel. This end of the loch is flat with large peat bogs on north and south shores. Due south on the other shore is Ben Resipol, which dominates to the left of the road for the next 50 kms.
Just before reaching bridge over the River Shiel, the outlet, the bus detoured 200 metres on the road to Kentra Bay and Ardtoe. This stop gave the opportunity for the tour to take a close look at one of the bridges that General Wade built circa 1746. This crosses the out flowing River Shiel at its narrowest point. This bridge provides splendid views of the magnificent Bridge pool downstream.
Back onto the main road again we crossed the river and drove through Acharacle, which is the village at this end of the loch. It is a typical western isles type village with houses strung out along the road, with no real centre of town.
Just before reaching bridge over the River Shiel, the outlet, the bus detoured 200 metres on the road to Kentra Bay and Ardtoe. This stop gave the opportunity for the tour to take a close look at one of the bridges that General Wade built circa 1746. This crosses the out flowing River Shiel at its narrowest point. This bridge provides splendid views of the magnificent Bridge pool downstream.
Back onto the main road again we crossed the river and drove through Acharacle, which is the village at this end of the loch. It is a typical western isles type village with houses strung out along the road, with no real centre of town.
Rannoch Moor from the A82
On coming out of the glen the road takes on Rannoch Moor, a 30 mile wide plateau of peat bogs and lochs reminding one of the Dessert Road in New Zealand. It is difficult to capture the vast nature of the scenery and it is a great contrast to the rugged and closed in nature of Glencoe.
After crossing Rannoch Moor the road dips down through a hairpin bend to pass close by one end of Loch Tulla. Here the A82 also comes close again to the Highland Railway line from Fort William.
Bridge of Orchy is the next village, and it has the obligatory inn, a remnant of the old stage coach days, when horses were changed for the long drag across Rannoch Moor. It also has a railway station.
After crossing Rannoch Moor the road dips down through a hairpin bend to pass close by one end of Loch Tulla. Here the A82 also comes close again to the Highland Railway line from Fort William.
Bridge of Orchy is the next village, and it has the obligatory inn, a remnant of the old stage coach days, when horses were changed for the long drag across Rannoch Moor. It also has a railway station.
The Wade bridge on the River Shiel, The Bridge Pool, and an aerial view of Acharacle and Ben Resipol behind
A view from Loch Shiel looking at the Glennfinnan Monument with the railway viaduct in the background, Glennfinnan Railway Station platform and the Ticket office, all made famous in the Harry Potter films,
From the car park the Highland railway line can be clearly seen up the glen. It runs over a long curving viaduct which is featured in the famous Harry Potter films. It is only a few minutes drive away to Glennfinnan station used in the Harry Potter films as Hogwart Station. As the bus made its way there a wild deer stag ran across the road behind us as we turned off the main road into the station car park The tour party took the opportunity to look around and take photographs.
On the road again it was up and over the divide between Glen Finnan and Glen Eilt. The road travels along the north east shore of thefreshwater Loch Eil. Looking up at the imposing slopes of the surrounding mountains one could think about Bonnie Prince Charlie avoiding capture by the Hanovarian troops 260 years before. Today the Highland line runs alongside the Loch on the opposite shore to the road.
After the bridge where the railway crosses over the road at the west end, there is Loch Ailort Station, and this is where our tour turned left off the Road to the Isles to travel south on the A861 along the shores of Loch Ailort. There is a large fish farm at this end of Loch Ailort, which is a short sea loch which opens up into the Sound of Arisaig.
After the bridge where the railway crosses over the road at the west end, there is Loch Ailort Station, and this is where our tour turned left off the Road to the Isles to travel south on the A861 along the shores of Loch Ailort. There is a large fish farm at this end of Loch Ailort, which is a short sea loch which opens up into the Sound of Arisaig.
The Sound of Arisaig
The road runs close by the shore in places, and from it one can get magnificent vistas across the ragged rocks, covered in the sea weed, often referred to as “tangle of the isles, and the interspersed with white sandy beaches, out across the azure waters to the islands of Rum and Eigg, and further north see the Cuillin mountains of Skye, peaking out above the hills of Ardnish.
At the sleepy little settlement of Glenuig with its boat ramp, and idyllic little pub one leaves the shores of the Sound of Arisaig and make a steep climb up and over the divide and into the Moidart.
At the sleepy little settlement of Glenuig with its boat ramp, and idyllic little pub one leaves the shores of the Sound of Arisaig and make a steep climb up and over the divide and into the Moidart.
Once again the road runs close to the shore, and just before the old Kinlochmoidart Post office at Ardmolich fields push the road away from the waters edge. It is here that there is the site of the 7 men of Moidart. After the 1745 rebellion, 7 beech trees were planted in memory of the 7 men of Moidart who were the first to join Bonnie Prince Charlie. These trees stood for over 230 years, but age has dealt to several, though those spaces have been filled with saplings. There is a memorial stone and plaque for the traveller who stops for a photograph.
Crossing the Moidart river, where a nearby view westward, down this sea loch, shows the island of Eigg in the V of the north shore and the Island at the mouth of Loch Moidart with the romantic name Eilaen Shona.
Crossing the Moidart river, where a nearby view westward, down this sea loch, shows the island of Eigg in the V of the north shore and the Island at the mouth of Loch Moidart with the romantic name Eilaen Shona.
Climbing away from Acharacle the road leads up and over to Salen on the shores of Loch Sunart. Loch Sunart is reputed to be one of the most beautiful sea lochs in Scotland, if not the most beautiful. The road runs through ancient Oak forest, a remnant of ancient oakwood that once spanned the Atlantic coasts of Europe as far south as Portugal. It is a temperate rainforest with small weather beaten trees, and moss and lichen covered rocks beneath.
Loch Sunart is definitely long and narrow stretching from the most westerly point on the British mainland - the tip of Ardnamurchan peninsula some 19 miles west of Salen (by road) and a further 12 miles to the east, past the historic village of Strontian near the head of the loch.
While there have been inhabitants of the area for many centuries the Strontian community as it exists now was established in 1724 to provide homes for the local mining workers. Mining in the Strontian area dates back to 1722, when Sir Alexander Murray discovered galena in the hills. A mine was opened in 1725, in partnership with Thomas Howard, 8th Duke of Norfolk and General Wade. Since that time various minerals have been mined here including lead, and strontianite, which contains the element named after the village, Strontium. The mines are dotted on the southern face of Ben Resipol above the village.
Strontian also has a religious history, for the village church still in use today is a Telford Parliamentary Church (Church of Scotland). It was built in the 1820s by Thomas Telford, and one of 32 "Parliamentary Churches" he designed for the Highlands and Islands.
“The government set up a commission in 1823 under John Rickman to build churches in some of the most thinly populated parishes. The project was funded by a grant of £50,000 and meant to include a manse with each church - each church and manse to cost not more than £1,500. Telford decided that it would be most economical to build all the buildings to the same plan. The layout of each church was a simple T-plan. There were two doors and windows in the front wall, which measured 52' 6". One gable had a belfry of four plain pillars supporting a pyramidal top. The bell rope came down the outside of the gable. At each side of the building there were two windows. The exterior and interior were undecorated. There was a hexagonal pulpit against the inside front wall.
The church is still in use today. The Old Manse, former Church of Scotland Manse, was built to a standard H-plan by Telford in 1827. It is a category C(S) listed building[19] and is today a private residence which also houses the Sunart Archives.” (SOURCE: Wikipedia)
In addition to the Telford church, there was a unique floating church built for the Free Church members to worship in.
“In the “Annals of the Disruption,” published some years after the succession of the “Free Kirk” from the Established Church of Scotland in 1843, numerous incidents of ingenuity, sacrifice, and adaptability are recorded as time and again the new “Free” congregations were refused land on which to erect their own places of worship, or even refusal to build. The following account of “The Floating Church” at Strontian in Argyll-shire, however, must rank high among the most unique of the ventures of that trying and testing time.”
“The huge hulk, constructed of iron, was built, fitted up with pulpit and benches, small vestry etc., and successfully towed from the Clyde round the Mull of Kintyre by one or two tug-steamers, and in the end safely moored in the appointed place … As a place of worship the accommodations was very comfortable. The pulpit stood at the bow - under cover of course - having the vestry at one side. The entrance for the congregation was towards the stern; that for the minister near the bow. A passage on one side, running the whole length of the church, afforded access to the benches, which were ranged straight across ship throughout her whole length, and occupied the entire breadth, excepting what was required for the passage. About 750 hearers could be comfortably accommodated.”
(SOURCE: www.wicketgate.co.uk/issue85/e85/e85_1.html)
Continuing on a short distance the bus passed the head of Loch Sunart. It is a gentle climb away from the water's edge and then the descent to Inversanda on Loch Linnhe, and further on eastward around the Coast the Ardgour ferry. The writer can remember when this ferry held only 6 cars, and the car deck was swivelled by hand. However, as bridges have been built elsewhere larger ferries become available, and the one that our tour bus took had been brought down from the Black Isle, north of Inverness on the Beauly Firth.
On crossing the water we left the A861 and rejoined the A82 some 8 miles south of Fort William. Next was a stop for for lunch at the visitor centre at the bottom of Glencoe.
Loch Sunart is definitely long and narrow stretching from the most westerly point on the British mainland - the tip of Ardnamurchan peninsula some 19 miles west of Salen (by road) and a further 12 miles to the east, past the historic village of Strontian near the head of the loch.
While there have been inhabitants of the area for many centuries the Strontian community as it exists now was established in 1724 to provide homes for the local mining workers. Mining in the Strontian area dates back to 1722, when Sir Alexander Murray discovered galena in the hills. A mine was opened in 1725, in partnership with Thomas Howard, 8th Duke of Norfolk and General Wade. Since that time various minerals have been mined here including lead, and strontianite, which contains the element named after the village, Strontium. The mines are dotted on the southern face of Ben Resipol above the village.
Strontian also has a religious history, for the village church still in use today is a Telford Parliamentary Church (Church of Scotland). It was built in the 1820s by Thomas Telford, and one of 32 "Parliamentary Churches" he designed for the Highlands and Islands.
“The government set up a commission in 1823 under John Rickman to build churches in some of the most thinly populated parishes. The project was funded by a grant of £50,000 and meant to include a manse with each church - each church and manse to cost not more than £1,500. Telford decided that it would be most economical to build all the buildings to the same plan. The layout of each church was a simple T-plan. There were two doors and windows in the front wall, which measured 52' 6". One gable had a belfry of four plain pillars supporting a pyramidal top. The bell rope came down the outside of the gable. At each side of the building there were two windows. The exterior and interior were undecorated. There was a hexagonal pulpit against the inside front wall.
The church is still in use today. The Old Manse, former Church of Scotland Manse, was built to a standard H-plan by Telford in 1827. It is a category C(S) listed building[19] and is today a private residence which also houses the Sunart Archives.” (SOURCE: Wikipedia)
In addition to the Telford church, there was a unique floating church built for the Free Church members to worship in.
“In the “Annals of the Disruption,” published some years after the succession of the “Free Kirk” from the Established Church of Scotland in 1843, numerous incidents of ingenuity, sacrifice, and adaptability are recorded as time and again the new “Free” congregations were refused land on which to erect their own places of worship, or even refusal to build. The following account of “The Floating Church” at Strontian in Argyll-shire, however, must rank high among the most unique of the ventures of that trying and testing time.”
“The huge hulk, constructed of iron, was built, fitted up with pulpit and benches, small vestry etc., and successfully towed from the Clyde round the Mull of Kintyre by one or two tug-steamers, and in the end safely moored in the appointed place … As a place of worship the accommodations was very comfortable. The pulpit stood at the bow - under cover of course - having the vestry at one side. The entrance for the congregation was towards the stern; that for the minister near the bow. A passage on one side, running the whole length of the church, afforded access to the benches, which were ranged straight across ship throughout her whole length, and occupied the entire breadth, excepting what was required for the passage. About 750 hearers could be comfortably accommodated.”
(SOURCE: www.wicketgate.co.uk/issue85/e85/e85_1.html)
Continuing on a short distance the bus passed the head of Loch Sunart. It is a gentle climb away from the water's edge and then the descent to Inversanda on Loch Linnhe, and further on eastward around the Coast the Ardgour ferry. The writer can remember when this ferry held only 6 cars, and the car deck was swivelled by hand. However, as bridges have been built elsewhere larger ferries become available, and the one that our tour bus took had been brought down from the Black Isle, north of Inverness on the Beauly Firth.
On crossing the water we left the A861 and rejoined the A82 some 8 miles south of Fort William. Next was a stop for for lunch at the visitor centre at the bottom of Glencoe.
Views along Loch Sunart are beautiful, and our bus on the Ardgour Ferry
This is the most infamous glen in Scotland having seen the massacre of the MacDonalds by the Campbells.
“Early in the morning of 13 February 1692, in the aftermath of the Glorious Revolution and the Jacobite uprising of 1689 led by John Graham of Claverhouse, a massacre took place in Glen Coe, in the Highlands of Scotland. This incident is referred to as the massacre of Glencoe, or in Scottish Gaelic Mort Ghlinne Comhann or murder of Glen Coe. The massacre began simultaneously in three settlements along the glen-Invercoe, Inverrigan, and Achnacon-although the killing took place all over the glen as fleeing MacDonalds were pursued. Thirty-eight MacDonalds from the Clan MacDonald of Glencoe were killed by the guests who had accepted their hospitality, on the grounds that the MacDonalds had not been prompt in pledging allegiance to the new monarchs, William and Mary. Another forty women and children died of exposure after their homes were burned.”
(SOURCE: Wikipedia)
However, nowadays the rugged nature of the mountains and steep sides make its slopes an ideal climbing and tramping venue. The road is excellent, and there is usually a piper at the car park near the summit of the glen. It is another place which has an atmosphere. On a day with low cloud it is very oppressive and feels closed in, however the tour day was good, and it was just spectacular scenery with a less oppressive atmosphere.
“Early in the morning of 13 February 1692, in the aftermath of the Glorious Revolution and the Jacobite uprising of 1689 led by John Graham of Claverhouse, a massacre took place in Glen Coe, in the Highlands of Scotland. This incident is referred to as the massacre of Glencoe, or in Scottish Gaelic Mort Ghlinne Comhann or murder of Glen Coe. The massacre began simultaneously in three settlements along the glen-Invercoe, Inverrigan, and Achnacon-although the killing took place all over the glen as fleeing MacDonalds were pursued. Thirty-eight MacDonalds from the Clan MacDonald of Glencoe were killed by the guests who had accepted their hospitality, on the grounds that the MacDonalds had not been prompt in pledging allegiance to the new monarchs, William and Mary. Another forty women and children died of exposure after their homes were burned.”
(SOURCE: Wikipedia)
However, nowadays the rugged nature of the mountains and steep sides make its slopes an ideal climbing and tramping venue. The road is excellent, and there is usually a piper at the car park near the summit of the glen. It is another place which has an atmosphere. On a day with low cloud it is very oppressive and feels closed in, however the tour day was good, and it was just spectacular scenery with a less oppressive atmosphere.
The West Highland Line, the view back along the A82 and a train crsets the watershed running beside the old army road
From Bridge of Orchy both road and railway travel up the glen. The railway line runs on the north side, around the base of the impressive Ben Dorain, a 1074 metre high mountain, whose sides show a conical and less rugged aspect than the mountains of Glen Coe. The road follows on the other side, south, of the Glen to the rail. Whereas the railway features an impressive viaduct (the horseshoe viaduct). The road is has no major feature. Both road and rail converge at the top of the glen on the way over the watershed to Tyndrum.
The A82 run along the famous Loch Lomond, and in several places it clings to the shore
From Tyndrum to Crainlarich through Strath Fillan, the mountains continue to loose some of their rocky cliffs, and become more rambler country than climber's. Their slopes show a covering of highland grasses rather than boulders and cliffs. At Crainlarich the A82 turns right, South, into Glen Falloch and to the western shores of Loch Lomond.
It follows along Loch Lomond's western shores, and in some parts, the road clings to the rocky faces of the shore, and in parts are even suspended out over the water's edge. The traffic was noticeable heavy, with even one section one-wayed with traffic lights at either end.
It follows along Loch Lomond's western shores, and in some parts, the road clings to the rocky faces of the shore, and in parts are even suspended out over the water's edge. The traffic was noticeable heavy, with even one section one-wayed with traffic lights at either end.
The Argyll motor car factory building, the intricate carvings of working tools on the window pillars, the marble staircaes
Just after the southern end of Loch Lomond is the town of Alexandra. This is where the first Scottish car was manufactured.
“The company, by now named Argyll Motors Ltd. had now become Scotland's biggest marque and soon moved from its premises in Bridgeton, Glasgow to a grand, purpose-built factory in Alexandria, West Dunbartonshire. The Argyll Motor Works covered 12 acres (4.9 ha), had its own railway line, and was opened in 1906 by John Douglas-Scott-Montagu, 2nd Baron Montagu of Beaulieu. However, the new factory was never used to capacity, and the company began to decline after Govan's death in 1907. It went into liquidation in 1908.
Production restarted in 1910, under a company now named Argyll Ltd., with a new range of cars including the famed "Flying Fifteen", and a six-cylinder model. The 12/14 was widely sold as a taxi even being exported to New York. Four-wheel brakes designed by J.M. Rubury of Argyll and patented on 18 March 1910 by Henri Perrot and John Meredith Rubury (Patent number 6807) were available from 1911 on, and in 1912 the single Sleeve valve engine designed by company director Baillie P. Burt and J. P. McCollum began production; the entire range featured Burt-McCollum engines by 1914.
Argyll changed hands in 1914 and the Alexandria factory was sold to the Royal Navy for torpedo production. Car production was resumed on a small scale in the original Bridgeton works under the control of John Brimlow who had previously run the repair department. The first product from the new company was a revival of the pre-war 15·9 hp model, now with electric starter but few were sold. In 1922 it was joined by a 1½-litre sleeve valve model and in 1926 by the 12/40 sports.
The company made a final appearance at the London Motor Show in 1927 and the last cars were probably made in 1928 though still advertised until Argyll closed in 1932.”
SOURCE: Wikipedia
The stop at the old Argyll car factory showed off some interesting architecture. From a distance it does not look different from many buildings. Up close, the windows are separated by carvings of all the working tools that might have been used in the factory, they appear on the columns to both left and right of the front entrance. The grand marble staircase showed this car entrepreneur cared for the workforce he built it for. This magnificent building now houses a shopping centre.
Then on past Dumbarton, and along the northern shore of the inner Clyde, the Erskine Bridge, and into Glasgow where we stayed for two nights.
“The company, by now named Argyll Motors Ltd. had now become Scotland's biggest marque and soon moved from its premises in Bridgeton, Glasgow to a grand, purpose-built factory in Alexandria, West Dunbartonshire. The Argyll Motor Works covered 12 acres (4.9 ha), had its own railway line, and was opened in 1906 by John Douglas-Scott-Montagu, 2nd Baron Montagu of Beaulieu. However, the new factory was never used to capacity, and the company began to decline after Govan's death in 1907. It went into liquidation in 1908.
Production restarted in 1910, under a company now named Argyll Ltd., with a new range of cars including the famed "Flying Fifteen", and a six-cylinder model. The 12/14 was widely sold as a taxi even being exported to New York. Four-wheel brakes designed by J.M. Rubury of Argyll and patented on 18 March 1910 by Henri Perrot and John Meredith Rubury (Patent number 6807) were available from 1911 on, and in 1912 the single Sleeve valve engine designed by company director Baillie P. Burt and J. P. McCollum began production; the entire range featured Burt-McCollum engines by 1914.
Argyll changed hands in 1914 and the Alexandria factory was sold to the Royal Navy for torpedo production. Car production was resumed on a small scale in the original Bridgeton works under the control of John Brimlow who had previously run the repair department. The first product from the new company was a revival of the pre-war 15·9 hp model, now with electric starter but few were sold. In 1922 it was joined by a 1½-litre sleeve valve model and in 1926 by the 12/40 sports.
The company made a final appearance at the London Motor Show in 1927 and the last cars were probably made in 1928 though still advertised until Argyll closed in 1932.”
SOURCE: Wikipedia
The stop at the old Argyll car factory showed off some interesting architecture. From a distance it does not look different from many buildings. Up close, the windows are separated by carvings of all the working tools that might have been used in the factory, they appear on the columns to both left and right of the front entrance. The grand marble staircase showed this car entrepreneur cared for the workforce he built it for. This magnificent building now houses a shopping centre.
Then on past Dumbarton, and along the northern shore of the inner Clyde, the Erskine Bridge, and into Glasgow where we stayed for two nights.