INVERNESS TO FORT WILLIAM
Masonic Jewels Tour - UK Day 9 - Inverness to Fort William
Tour to be continued in next update - Fort William to Glasgow by Road to the Isles and the A82
Food For Thought
Drummossie Moor the site of the Battle of Culloden, Battle site with information board in the foreground, A board of commemoration to the fallen
The memorial cairn, the old cottage that witnessed the slaughter, the way back to the centre with memorial boulders marking where the members of the fallen clans fell
The Moniack winery, Drumnadrochit and the Loch Ness centre, and the famous 1952 photo of the Loch Ness Monster swimming near Urquhart Castle
The swinging gates and traffic lights closing the road, A boat enters the Canal lock after the road bridge swings out of the way, the canal gates closing behind it
Water which normally flows over the higher gate, is allowed to enter underneath and fills the lower lock for the boats to go through to the next level.
The National Memorial to the Commandoes at Spean Bridge, One of the tour party places a poppy on the memorial, Our hotel in Fort William with the foothills of Ben Nevis in the background
For our first stop this day we started by travelling east a few kms to the battlefield of Culloden. Culloden was the last battle fought between those who supported the Stuarts and those who supported the Hanoverian monarchy.
On 16 April 1746, on Drummossie Moor overlooking Inverness, a well supplied Hanoverian army led by the Duke of Cumberland (son of King George II) annihilated the much smaller army of Lord John Murray and the leader he mistrusted, Prince Charles Edward Stuart.
This was the bloodiest of all the Jacobite battles. It was also the last battle fought on British soil. Charles Edward Stuart’s choice of rough, marshy ground was catastrophic, and the Jacobite swords and daggers were no match for the Hanoverian cannon and guns. It is said that the Hanoverian troops had also spent weeks training in Aberdeen at the new art of fighting with fixed bayonets.
On 16 April 1746, on Drummossie Moor overlooking Inverness, a well supplied Hanoverian army led by the Duke of Cumberland (son of King George II) annihilated the much smaller army of Lord John Murray and the leader he mistrusted, Prince Charles Edward Stuart.
This was the bloodiest of all the Jacobite battles. It was also the last battle fought on British soil. Charles Edward Stuart’s choice of rough, marshy ground was catastrophic, and the Jacobite swords and daggers were no match for the Hanoverian cannon and guns. It is said that the Hanoverian troops had also spent weeks training in Aberdeen at the new art of fighting with fixed bayonets.
It is reputed that between 1,500 and 2,000 Jacobites were killed or wounded in the brief battle. Government losses were lighter with 50 dead and 259 wounded although recent geophysical studies on the government burial pit suggest the figure to be nearer 300. Certainly in those days there was a very high rate of deaths among the wounded.
One of the many myths of this event is that it was a Scottish versus English affair. In fact, far more Scots supported and fought on the Hanoverian side than on the Jacobite. The Jacobites also had troops from France and Ireland amongst their numbers.
After the battle the major social and economic changes that had affected the Highlands were speeded up, and repression, legal and political were instituted. A major benefit was that the government had to devote more attention to the region and its people. As a result many Jacobites were conscripted into the British Army with the formation of the highland regiments which benefited both nation and individuals.
It would be remiss not to remember that despite the benefits to the kingdom of Great Britain, in making efforts to integrate the Highlands, civil penalties were introduced to weaken the Gaelic culture and Scottish Clan system.
An interesting true story that is told is one of Scottish hospitality immediately before the battle.
Hugh Rose of Kilravock entertained Charles Edward Stuart and the Duke of Cumberland respectively on 14 and 15 April 1746, before the Battle of Culloden. Charles' manners and deportment were described by his host as most engaging. Having walked out with Mr. Rose, before sitting down he watched trees being planted. He remarked, "How happy, Sir, you must feel, to be thus peaceably employed in adorning your mansion, whilst all the country round is in such commotion." Kilravock was a firm supporter of the house of Hanover, but his adherence was not solicited, nor were his preferences alluded to. The next day, the Duke of Cumberland called at the castle gate, and when Kilravock went to receive him, he bluffly observed, "So you had my cousin Charles here yesterday." Kilravock replied, "What am I to do, I am Scots", to which Cumberland replied, "You did perfectly right."
However, the Battlefield is sombre and disturbing. It has an aura that even the most insensitive can appreciate as one of gloom.
One of the many myths of this event is that it was a Scottish versus English affair. In fact, far more Scots supported and fought on the Hanoverian side than on the Jacobite. The Jacobites also had troops from France and Ireland amongst their numbers.
After the battle the major social and economic changes that had affected the Highlands were speeded up, and repression, legal and political were instituted. A major benefit was that the government had to devote more attention to the region and its people. As a result many Jacobites were conscripted into the British Army with the formation of the highland regiments which benefited both nation and individuals.
It would be remiss not to remember that despite the benefits to the kingdom of Great Britain, in making efforts to integrate the Highlands, civil penalties were introduced to weaken the Gaelic culture and Scottish Clan system.
An interesting true story that is told is one of Scottish hospitality immediately before the battle.
Hugh Rose of Kilravock entertained Charles Edward Stuart and the Duke of Cumberland respectively on 14 and 15 April 1746, before the Battle of Culloden. Charles' manners and deportment were described by his host as most engaging. Having walked out with Mr. Rose, before sitting down he watched trees being planted. He remarked, "How happy, Sir, you must feel, to be thus peaceably employed in adorning your mansion, whilst all the country round is in such commotion." Kilravock was a firm supporter of the house of Hanover, but his adherence was not solicited, nor were his preferences alluded to. The next day, the Duke of Cumberland called at the castle gate, and when Kilravock went to receive him, he bluffly observed, "So you had my cousin Charles here yesterday." Kilravock replied, "What am I to do, I am Scots", to which Cumberland replied, "You did perfectly right."
However, the Battlefield is sombre and disturbing. It has an aura that even the most insensitive can appreciate as one of gloom.
The journey westward to Fort William meant that we had to retrace our steps and pass close by our hotel, crossing the River Ness on the same bridge as we had earlier in the morning.
Nowadays one would normally take the A82 along the full length of Loch Shiel to Fort William. It is the second longest A-road in Scotland, after the A9 at 269 kms long miles from Inverness to Glasgow.. The road passes close to some of the most notable landmarks in the Highlands, including Loch Ness, Urquhart Castle, the Commando Memorial, Ben Nevis and Fort William which were on this day's itinerary. Glen Coe, Rannoch Moor, and Loch Lomond would follow on the next day on our way to Glasgow.
The A82 has an extensive history. It is derived in several places from the military roads constructed through the Highlands by General Wade and Major Caulfeild during the early to mid 18th century, along with later roads constructed by Freemason Thomas Telford in the early 19th century. The modern route is based on that designed by Telford, but with a number of improvements primarily dating from the 1920s and '30s. These include section across Rannoch Moor.
However, the our day's tour deviated slightly, northward on the A862 to pay a visit to the Moniack winery, the most northerly winery in the UK.
Mrs Phillipa Fraser converted part of her 16th Century ancestral family home Moniack Castle in Invernessshire into a Winery and started making and selling commercially a range of white and red wines followed by the country wines. In 1980 Highlands Winery became the first business north of Manchester to be granted a license to produce any alcohol apart from Whisky.
The wine production started up in the domestic part of the castle with virtually no capital and using the most basic equipment. The intention was to produce wines derived from wild flowers, berries and sap from birch trees. Six different wines which included the famous Moniack Mead, were produced. Silver Birch was the first to be produced, using the sap from locally tapped birch trees. This was followed by Moniack Mead, Elderflower, Meadow Sweet, Rowanberry and Elderberry. A range of liqueurs was then developed and jellies for eating with meat. Over the years sales have soared with our products gaining wide support both at home and abroad.
They have had to adapt to meet the growing demand for our products and although no longer hand bottled they are still produced with immense care and attention to the original family recipes using the highest quality ingredients.
Unfortunately Moniack Castle closed to visitors some time after our visit.
Nowadays one would normally take the A82 along the full length of Loch Shiel to Fort William. It is the second longest A-road in Scotland, after the A9 at 269 kms long miles from Inverness to Glasgow.. The road passes close to some of the most notable landmarks in the Highlands, including Loch Ness, Urquhart Castle, the Commando Memorial, Ben Nevis and Fort William which were on this day's itinerary. Glen Coe, Rannoch Moor, and Loch Lomond would follow on the next day on our way to Glasgow.
The A82 has an extensive history. It is derived in several places from the military roads constructed through the Highlands by General Wade and Major Caulfeild during the early to mid 18th century, along with later roads constructed by Freemason Thomas Telford in the early 19th century. The modern route is based on that designed by Telford, but with a number of improvements primarily dating from the 1920s and '30s. These include section across Rannoch Moor.
However, the our day's tour deviated slightly, northward on the A862 to pay a visit to the Moniack winery, the most northerly winery in the UK.
Mrs Phillipa Fraser converted part of her 16th Century ancestral family home Moniack Castle in Invernessshire into a Winery and started making and selling commercially a range of white and red wines followed by the country wines. In 1980 Highlands Winery became the first business north of Manchester to be granted a license to produce any alcohol apart from Whisky.
The wine production started up in the domestic part of the castle with virtually no capital and using the most basic equipment. The intention was to produce wines derived from wild flowers, berries and sap from birch trees. Six different wines which included the famous Moniack Mead, were produced. Silver Birch was the first to be produced, using the sap from locally tapped birch trees. This was followed by Moniack Mead, Elderflower, Meadow Sweet, Rowanberry and Elderberry. A range of liqueurs was then developed and jellies for eating with meat. Over the years sales have soared with our products gaining wide support both at home and abroad.
They have had to adapt to meet the growing demand for our products and although no longer hand bottled they are still produced with immense care and attention to the original family recipes using the highest quality ingredients.
Unfortunately Moniack Castle closed to visitors some time after our visit.
The tour continued south west to Dromnadrochit on Loch Ness, and a stop at the Loch Ness Monster centre, and to the ruins of Urquhart Castle where we had a short stop to take photos before continuing on the road west, always watching out for Nessie. The Loch Ness monster is 'often' seen in the loch close by the Castle. Despite stopping for the opportunity of a photograph and a good look scouring the waters behind the Castle our tour group never got a sight of this elusive creature..
However, in the same year as the famous Nessie sighting, 1952, on the, 29th September, Loch Ness was the venue of the ill fated world water speed record by John Cobb, who reached 200mph before his boat, Crusader, hit a small wave and pitched forward, and disintegrated killing him instantly.
Loch Ness is a huge loch - over 36kms long, but very narrow only 2.7 kms at its widest. It is barely a mile wide for much of its length. It was formed in a geological fault torn across the ancient Caledonian mountains 300 million years ago. It is very deep 230 m at its deepest, but averages 132m deep. For instance the North Sea has a mean depth of 90 metres. Loch Ness contains more fresh water than all the lakes in England and Wales combined,
However, we came to Fort Augustus at the West end of the loch, where we met the 1773 route of Freemasons's Dr. Johnson, the inventor of the dictionery, and Boswell. They had travelled on the the old coach road on the Southern shore, which a some points on the A82 we had been able to make out.
Our first indication that we had arrived was when we were stopped by closing double gates and traffic lights. These gates stopped road traffic for the operation of Freemason Thomas Telford's Caledonian Canal.
Loch Ness is a huge loch - over 36kms long, but very narrow only 2.7 kms at its widest. It is barely a mile wide for much of its length. It was formed in a geological fault torn across the ancient Caledonian mountains 300 million years ago. It is very deep 230 m at its deepest, but averages 132m deep. For instance the North Sea has a mean depth of 90 metres. Loch Ness contains more fresh water than all the lakes in England and Wales combined,
However, we came to Fort Augustus at the West end of the loch, where we met the 1773 route of Freemasons's Dr. Johnson, the inventor of the dictionery, and Boswell. They had travelled on the the old coach road on the Southern shore, which a some points on the A82 we had been able to make out.
Our first indication that we had arrived was when we were stopped by closing double gates and traffic lights. These gates stopped road traffic for the operation of Freemason Thomas Telford's Caledonian Canal.
The road bridge swings out of the way allowing the boat to enter the first lock and then the lower gate closes behind. And water is allowed to fill the lock, lifting the boat up to the next level.
Loch Ness is 16m above sea level, and the canal, has 5 locks, at Fort Augustus lifts the boats 16m to 32 m above MSL to Loch Oich, and then 2 locks drops the canal to 29m and Loch Lochy. At Banavie, near Fort William, the Neptune’s Staircase is the longest staircase lock in Britain dropping (lifting) the boats 20 m It consists of eight locks, each 55 m by 12 m and it takes about 90 minutes to pass through the system. There are finally 2 locks at Corpach returning the boats to sea level.
The canal was conceived as a way of providing much-needed employment to the Highland region. The area was depressed as a result of the Highland Clearances, which had deprived many of their homes and jobs. Laws had been introduced which sought to eradicate the local culture, including bans on wearing tartan, speaking Gaelic and playing the bagpipes. The reason why there is so much Scottish fiddle music. Many emigrated to Canada or elsewhere, or moved to the Scottish Lowlands. The canal would also provide a safer passage for wooden sailing ships from the north east of Scotland to the south west, avoiding the route around the north coast via Cape Wrath and the Pentland Firth.
The first survey for a canal was carried out by James Watt in 1773, but it was the Caledonian Canal Commission that paved the way for the actual construction. On 27 July 1803, an Act of Parliament was passed to authorise the project, and the canal engineer Thomas Telford was asked to survey, design and build the waterway. Telford worked with William Jessop on the survey, and the two men oversaw the construction until Jessop died in 1814. The canal was expected to take seven years to complete, and to cost £474,000, to be funded by the Government, but both estimates were inadequate.
The canal finally opened in 1822, having taken an extra 12 years to complete, and cost £910,000. Over 3,000 local people had been employed in its construction, but the draught had been reduced from 20 feet (6.1 m) to 15 feet (4.6 m), in an effort to save costs. In the meantime, shipbuilding had advanced, with the introduction of steam-powered iron-hulled ships, many of which were now too big to use the canal. The Royal Noavy did not need to use the canal either, as Napoleon had been defeated at Waterloo in 1815, and the perceived threat to shipping when the canal was started was now gone. (SOURCE: from Wikipedia).
However, after 190 years the canal still is a working entity, though hydraulic power now operates the locks, and the boats are motorised and the skippers are in the leisure industry.
The tour continued towards Fort William passing the two other Lochs on the canal Loch Oich and Loch Lochy.
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The canal was conceived as a way of providing much-needed employment to the Highland region. The area was depressed as a result of the Highland Clearances, which had deprived many of their homes and jobs. Laws had been introduced which sought to eradicate the local culture, including bans on wearing tartan, speaking Gaelic and playing the bagpipes. The reason why there is so much Scottish fiddle music. Many emigrated to Canada or elsewhere, or moved to the Scottish Lowlands. The canal would also provide a safer passage for wooden sailing ships from the north east of Scotland to the south west, avoiding the route around the north coast via Cape Wrath and the Pentland Firth.
The first survey for a canal was carried out by James Watt in 1773, but it was the Caledonian Canal Commission that paved the way for the actual construction. On 27 July 1803, an Act of Parliament was passed to authorise the project, and the canal engineer Thomas Telford was asked to survey, design and build the waterway. Telford worked with William Jessop on the survey, and the two men oversaw the construction until Jessop died in 1814. The canal was expected to take seven years to complete, and to cost £474,000, to be funded by the Government, but both estimates were inadequate.
The canal finally opened in 1822, having taken an extra 12 years to complete, and cost £910,000. Over 3,000 local people had been employed in its construction, but the draught had been reduced from 20 feet (6.1 m) to 15 feet (4.6 m), in an effort to save costs. In the meantime, shipbuilding had advanced, with the introduction of steam-powered iron-hulled ships, many of which were now too big to use the canal. The Royal Noavy did not need to use the canal either, as Napoleon had been defeated at Waterloo in 1815, and the perceived threat to shipping when the canal was started was now gone. (SOURCE: from Wikipedia).
However, after 190 years the canal still is a working entity, though hydraulic power now operates the locks, and the boats are motorised and the skippers are in the leisure industry.
The tour continued towards Fort William passing the two other Lochs on the canal Loch Oich and Loch Lochy.
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Nearing Fort William the coach stopped at Spean Bridge. It is here that there is the national memorial to the Commandoes who died in WW II, for to quote from the inscription "This country was their training ground". This commemorates the Commandoes who trained extensively in the mountains of the area during WW II. One of the tour party placed a poppy ot the foot of the memorial.
The clouds were low on the slopes, and the party did not get a look at Ben Nevis as we reached Fort William in mid afternoon. However, the rain stopped as we made the hotel, and after time to freshen up the tour party followed our routine of exploration. Most made the walk into the centre of town.
The clouds were low on the slopes, and the party did not get a look at Ben Nevis as we reached Fort William in mid afternoon. However, the rain stopped as we made the hotel, and after time to freshen up the tour party followed our routine of exploration. Most made the walk into the centre of town.
Lodge Fort William No. 43 building with its shops, the upstairs Hall cleared for public use, working tools displayed
Some of the party even met some local Freemasons, finding Lodge Fort William No. 43, with its Lodge building having two shops underneath and a central door to their pub at the back. The pub had been opened as a facility for the brethren, but a full liquor licence had to be obtained to allow this to happen. When the public gatecrashed the venue in the first weeks the Lodge decided to open it for all the public. The tour group found some Fort William brethren at the bar, and they were taken up stairs to be proudly shown their lodgeroom, prior to plying them with copious amounts of whisky, so much so it made some frightened to return after dinner. Masonic fellowship flourished.
Their Lodge room was cleared to allow for public hire, which is another source of income. The working tools are displayed behind glass panels. The honours board on the wall recorded Past Masters all the way back to 1743, with no famous benefactor of rank in those listed. However, this was a rich and successful Lodge due to the ground floor shops, the pub, and commercial letting of the hall.
Their Lodge room was cleared to allow for public hire, which is another source of income. The working tools are displayed behind glass panels. The honours board on the wall recorded Past Masters all the way back to 1743, with no famous benefactor of rank in those listed. However, this was a rich and successful Lodge due to the ground floor shops, the pub, and commercial letting of the hall.
Urqhuart Castle, John Cobb at speed in Crusader, and the narrowness of Loch Ness clearly shown from above Fort Augustus looking eastward
